Theodore Roosevelt National Park, ND

For many years the Little Missouri River and it's tributaries have cut through the soft sandstone layers of the North Dakota badlands.  This rugged land received national park status in 1947.  As you drive the park you can find prairie grasses, prickly pear cactus, mountain junipers, cottonwoods and sage brush...two separate areas are accessible by car...

The South Unit access is at Medora.  A 36 mile scenic loop drive has pullouts and interpretive signs. Overlooks show off the rugged badlands scenery, with all it's colorful rock and sand layers.   A herd of bison roam here, as does a herd of wild horses.  Prairie dog "towns" are entertaining.  Teddy Roosevelt's Maltese Cross Cabin, used during his cattle ranching days, is on exhibit near the Visitor Center.

The North Unit is about 50 miles north, and presents different scenery.  A 14 mile drive leads in and out of the park.  Grasslands and cattle drives are the theme here, along with overlook views of the winding Little Mo.  Another herd of bison graze here, wandering across the roads.  A herd of longhorn steers have been introduced to the North Unit, but we didn't have the chance to see them up close.  Unusual rock formations called "cannonball concretions" can be seen at one pullout.

The Elkhorn Ranch unit, home to Teddy Roosevelt from 1884-1887, lies somewhere between the other two. The buildings no longer exist, but the foundation stones are there, and the peaceful scenery around it.  This area is not easily accessible by car.

From North Dakota we returned to Minnesota.

Medora, North Dakota

The last week of August was spent in Dickenson, North Dakota.  From our base camp there, we took the car to explore Medora, and the North and South Units of Theodore Roosevelt National Park.

Medora was founded in 1883 by French nobleman Marquis de Mores, who named the town after his daughter.  It grew to be a ranching and cattle town, with Texas longhorn cattle drives passing nearby.

In Medora, we took part in the famous "Pitchfork Fondue" dinner.  Steaks are speared on pitchforks, then quickly seared in vats of hot oil...baked beans, potatoes, cole slaw, fruit, and brownies are served buffet style to complete the meal.  Long rows of tables are set outside, so you just fill your plate and grab a seat...

We visited the North Dakota Cowboy Hall of Fame, filled with memorabilia and stories of the west...of cattle drives, rodeo, homesteads, native Americans, and ranch life.

Old Town Hall Theater had a presentation about the life of Teddy Roosevelt and how time spent in North Dakota influenced him to become United States President.  It was told by a nationally known Roosevelt historian/reprisor who even resembled the man in looks and dress.

Idaho & Montana

We left the Yakima Valley in Washington to continue our journey east.  The first night found us near Coeur d'Alene, Idaho.  We were able to stay in our campground there and observe the solar eclipse on August 21st before moving on to Montana.
 
Driving toward Stevensville (south of Missoula) we encountered thick smoke from the Lolo Fire (in the National Forest near Hamilton).  Days earlier the highway had been closed, and evacuations occurred.  Command centers were still active along the route.  But, we were able to get through and spent a couple days visiting relatives there.  Then it was back to I-90, through Butte, Bozeman, Billings, and on I-94 to North Dakota.

East of Billings we drove by Pompey's Pillar, a massive sandstone "rock" that rises up along the Yellowstone River.  Based on petroglyphs & carvings on the stone, this landmark has guided travelers for centuries.  One notable etching...William Clark (of explorers Lewis & Clark) scratched his name there in 1806...the site is now a national monument.

Columbia River Gorge & Mt Hood

The Columbia River flows westward through the Cascade Mountains near Mt Hood on it's way to the Pacific Ocean.  Volcanoes, lava flows, flood waters, and glaciers carved this nearly 100 mile National Scenic Area.  The river forms a natural border between states of Oregon and Washington.

Mt. Hood is visible from many points. Towns dot the shores: Goldendale has Mary Hill Museum of Art, a winery, and replica Stonehedge Memorial nearby.  The Dalles has an interpretive center.  Oregons's hwy 35 entrance to Mt Hood National Forest is in the town of Hood River.  Cascade Locks has a marine park, home to a 500 passenger excursion stern-wheeler boat that offers river tours (we saw it paddling upstream).  "Bridge of the Gods" toll bridge ($1 per car) crosses the river at Cascade Locks.  Besides vehicles, this bridge also has lots of foot traffic as hikers from the Pacific Crest Trail come into town.

Dams have transformed the river into something more peaceful than the raging river first encountered by Lewis & Clark in 1805.  But strong winds whipped up waves and brought out windsurfers and kiteboarders the August day when we drove by.

 

Two highways, I-84 on the Oregon side and hwy 14 in Washington, allow for a scenic round-trip loop, with different views of the river and it's bluffs (double tunnels on hwy 14 were interesting: one for autos & one for trains).

West of Cascade Locks we tried to find Multnomah Falls, a 620 foot double-decker waterfall....but lots of other folks had the same idea and we couldn't even find a place to park!

Mount Rainier National Park

Mount Rainier, at 14,410 ft, is the tallest volcano in the Cascade Mountain Range and the centerpiece of this National Park.  Glaciers cling to it's rocky slopes and steam escapes from deep below...what a perfect view the day we were there!

We entered the park from the east side, at Chinook Pass, where there is access to the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail.  We drove into the park, following winding roads along rambling streams and old growth forest to the Steven's Canyon Entrance on the southeast corner.

We parked here and hiked a trail (which included a swinging suspension bridge over a stream) through the "Grove of the Patriarchs".  This stand of ancient, giant trees have survived the forces of nature for over 1000 years.
 
We wound our way further into the park up to historic Paradise Inn.  This building opened in 1917, so is celebrating 100 years of park history. It is the largest lodging facility in the park;  built using massive timbers and large boulders, it blends into the mountain landscape. Trails led through wildflower meadows and around glacial lakes.  More experienced climbers can leave from here in attempts to reach the summit.

Yakima Valley Washington

From the Willamette Valley in Oregon we headed north to spend a few days in the Yakima Valley, Washington.

Yakima Valley, settled between high desert grassland hills, includes towns such as Naches, Yakima, Union Gap, Toppenish, Zillah, Sunnyside, Grandview, & Prosser.

This fertile valley, enhanced by irrigation waters and abundant sunshine, produces fruits, vegetables, grapes, and 75% of the United States hop crop.

Acres of apple, pear, plum, & cherry trees, blueberry bushes, vineyards with varietal grapes that support local wineries, and hops that are shipped around the nation & used by local breweries...all grow here.

Wine tasting is popular, as is sampling craft beers.

Vegetables such as asparagus, tomatoes, corn, peppers, and melons supply abundant local produce stands, and retail grocery stores.

McKenzie River Highway

Highway 126 as it heads east from Eugene, OR is known as the McKenzie Highway.  It follows the curves of the McKenzie River, passing grazing lands, fruit & nut orchards, and fishing hotspots. At the town of McKenzie Bridge, one turns onto hwy 242.  This scenic highway leads one into the Cascade Mountains on a steep, curvy climb to McKenzie Pass, 5324 ft elevation.  This section of highway into the Mt Washington Wilderness is generally closed from November until June because of heavy snow. And, it is always closed to trucks and large vehicles (like motorhomes!).  We did this trip by car with relatives from Eugene as tour guides.

 

At the top of the pass is Dee Wright Observatory, a lava-stone structure built in 1935 by the CCC.  Openings in the turrent-like building frame landmarks in the area, and identify nearby mountain peaks.  Belknap Crater (below), source of the huge lava field that covers the ground here, is visible, as is Mt. Washington, Mt. Jefferson, and Peaks of the Three Sisters mountains.

 

After lunch in the town of Sisters, we drove back on hwy 126, stopping to see Koosah Falls near the start of the McKenzie River. 

The gardens at Belknap Hot Springs Resort (where hot water bubbles from a crack in the rocks), and a pie shop in Vida were also on tour.

Pacific Coast : Newport Oregon

Newport has two historic lighthouses: Yaquina Bay Lighthouse and Yaquina Head Lighthouse (pictured).

Yaquina Bay Lighthouse is the oldest building in Newport, built in 1871.  It is unusual in that the lighthouse and the keepers house are all one structure.  No longer in use, it is now a museum.

Yaquina Head Lighthouse, first illuminated in 1873, is the tallest along the Oregon coast. It took more than 370,000 bricks to build it. There is an interpretive center on site where we watched a film and read displays about the history of the lighthouse.  Tours of this active lighthouse are also available.

Newport's Bayfront & Harbor district are home to the US Coast Guard and one of the largest commercial fishing fleets in Oregon.  We had lunch at a bayside restaurant, then visited a fish market, and watched fish and crabs being unloaded from a fishing boat.    Other attractions include the Oregon Coast Aquarium, Hatfield Marine Science Center, Marine Discovery Tours, and the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center.

Newport also marks the start (or end, depending on which direction you are traveling!) of Hwy 20, an east-west cross-country route that goes all the way to Boston, and may be the longest continuous highway in the US.

Sea Lion Caves

Eleven miles north of Florence, OR, on coastal highway 101 is a unique attraction: Sea Lion Caves.  Discovered in 1880 when a sea captain rowed a small boat through a fissure in the rocky shore, the caves contained hundreds of Steller sea lions.  Over the years  the cave has been kept as natural as possible, allowing the seals to maintain their winter home.  In spring and summer, they are found on the rocky ledges of shore line, with the young pups.  An elevator has been added, to allow visitors to descend 208 feet below and observe the sea lions in the cave...in their natural surroundings. 

 

From outside observation decks, you can see the sea lions along the shore. Other residents of this beach area are diving Cormorants, sea birds who dive for fish and tend their nests on the rocks.

You can also view Heceta Head Lighthouse.  This lighthouse stands 1000 ft above the water.  It sends one of the strongest signal lights along the coast.  The keeper's house is now a bed & breakfast.

Oregon USA

From British Columbia, Canada our next stop would be the state of Oregon, USA.  We entered Oregon by crossing the Columbia River at the Plymouth/Umatilla bridge, near Hermiston.  Picking up I-84 we followed the Columbia River westward. 

Along the way we started seeing glimpses of snow-topped Mt Hood...Oregon's highest peak at 11,239 ft.

Eventually we turned south on hwy 97, driving through the high desert on the east side of the Cascade Range.  "Back in Time" scenic highway 97 led us through small towns and grasslands.  Near Shaniko was a sign "you are at the 45th parallel:1/2 way between the equator and the north pole."

At Sisters, OR we turned west again, following hwy 20: "Over the River & Thru the Woods" scenic highway.  This road took us into the Cascades and over Santiam Pass (4800 ft elevation), then 11 miles of a 6% downgrade into the McKenzie River valley.  We drove by large moss covered trees, over hills & around lots of curves.

Radium Hot Springs BC

Radium Hot Springs BC would be our last place to visit in Canada.  To get there we drove Hwy 93S through Kootenay National Park.  This park, designated in 1920, has a diverse geography, from glacier peaks to grasslands.  Part of the route had seen forest fire (in fact there was an active fire as we drove through, although we never saw flames; only the slight smell of smoke in the air).

Radium Hot Springs, the town, is located just outside the park boundary.  It has an alpine village feel, with restaurants serving Austrian, Bavarian and German style foods.  A wandering herd of bighorn sheep call the town home; we only saw one, but sometimes the entire herd is seen resting along the highway

And there are the hot spring pools located at the edge of town. From early settlers and travelers, to today's tourists, many have stopped to visit and soak in the mineral rich waters.   Other attractions are golf, whitewater rafting, hiking, and cross-country skiing in winter.

One day we toured the town of Invermere, just south of Radium.  Setttled on the shores of Lake Windermere, the little village hosts quaint shops and galleries, cafe's and coffeeshops. One could stroll around town, wade along the shores of the lake, or even rent kayaks or canoes...in winter, there is even ice fishing.

As we headed south toward the border, we drove through the Columbia Valley, where the Columbia River has it's beginnings in the wetlands around Canal Flats.

Banff National Park

Banff National Park, established in 1885, is the first national park designated in Canada.  The scenic resort town of Banff attracts millions of tourists annually, for summer scenery and winter skiing.

From Banff we drove north through the park on the Trans-Canada Hwy (Hwy 1) to Lake Louise. The highway has some unique overpasses designed to allow large animals to cross the highway without getting hit by vehicles.


Lake Louise/ Victoria Glacier (left) are one of the most photographed locations in the Canadian Rockies.

After lunch, we drove further north along the Icefields Parkway (hwy 93N).  This drive takes you through ancient glacier fields, dramatic rocky spires, and emerald-color lakes.

Bow Lake (right) was especially scenic. Just north of the lake we crossed Bow Summit, highest point on the Icefield Parkway (2088 m/6849 ft elevation).  Late afternoon we drove back to base camp near Cochrane, Alberta (just west of Calgary).

To celebrate "Canada 150" anniversary, the park service is giving free admission passes to all visitors in 2017.

Alaska Journey Ends

From the mile "0" marker in Dawson Creek, BC, the Alaska Highway stretches 1483 miles to Fairbanks, Alaska.  At mile 887 (Whitehorse, Yukon) we decided to end our trip and turn around.  

 

The main reasons: bumps & rough roads, and long stretches of loose gravel.

we returned via the same route (the only route!) back to Dawson Creek.  From there we began to look for new places to explore...

Wildlife along the Alaska Hwy

Along the Alaska Highway, wildlife have the right-of-way.  If an animal is on the road, you stop for it.  If an animal is along the road, you pass slowly without stopping to watch or take pictures.  Most of the animals we saw were on the section of highway between Fort Nelson, BC and Teslin, Yukon.

 

Black bears (alone or with cubs) and Wood bison (in herds or single males) were the most common and easy to see.

 

 

 On Stone Mountain, we finally saw the Stone sheep.  Their coloring is very similar to the rocks they climb on.  We also saw these caribou or young moose; they were crossing the highway, but were gone by the time we got close.  Other smaller animals included red fox, some deer,  rabbits and squirrels.

Whitehorse Rapids Fishladder

For thousands of years salmon have traveled up the Yukon River to spawn; some traveling to the Yukon's headwaters near Whitehorse, Yukon Territory.  The salmon lay eggs in the fresh water sand where they develop over winter before hatching the following spring.  The salmon fry remain in fresh water for a year or two, after which they make their way to the salt water oceans to live to adulthood.  Some of these adults return to the fresh water where they were hatched to spawn, and start the cycle over again.

In the late 1950's this cycle was disturbed when Northern Canada Power Commission built a hydroelectric facility and dam on the Yukon River in Whitehorse. In order to provide a means for the salmon to continue their migrations again, in 1959 the Whitehorse Rapids Fishway (commonly called the "fish ladder") was built.

This unique structure provided a "ladder" for the salmon to move from below the dam at the hydroelectric plant and go upstream to the spawning areas. An underwater canal directs the fish toward the ladder entrance. A series of steps with flowing water allows the fish to jump or swim along the ladder. Salmon are not the only species to use this unique bypass system.  At 366 meters (roughly 1200 feet) it is considered to be the longest wooden fish ladder in the world.

An interpretation center with viewing screens (via underwater cameras) allow visitors to see fish moving along the ladder. 

White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad

Born during the Klondike Gold Rush, the White Pass & Yukon Route narrow gauge railroad was built to provide an easier mode of transportation to the gold fields in the north.  The route starts at sea level in Skagway, Alaska and climbs to almost 3000 ft at the White Pass summit
just 20 miles away.  Tight curves of White Pass called for a narrow gauge track (rails only 3 ft apart).  Construction meant 110 miles of cliff hanging curves, two tunnels, and numerous bridges and trestles.
Construction crews worked from two directions: north from Skagway across White Pass Summit, and south from the Klondike gold fields.  They met in Caribou Crossing (now called Carcross).  A gold spike was driven there in July, 1900.  For decades the WP&YR carried ore, supplies during WWII, and fortune seekers to the Klondike.  In 1982 mines closed, and the railway suspended operations.  In 1988 WP&YR was reinvented as a tourist attraction.

From Whitehorse, we took a bus to the town of Fraser to board the train.

En route we had a short stop at the
town of Carcross.   This little town of about 500 is brightly decorated with First Nation native painting and carvings.


Once on the train we had a guided tour through the curves and tunnels, over canyons and trestles, until we departed at Skagway, Alaska.

At Skagway, we had some time to look around and have lunch before returning to Whitehorse via bus.

Skagway is also a port for Alaska cruise ships; one was on dock while we were there.

The S.S. Klondike

The S.S. Klondike, built in the late 1930's, was the largest stern-wheeler on the Yukon River at that time.  The Klondike carried supplies, food and liquor, mail, passengers, and silver ore along a 460 mile route between Whitehorse and Dawson City, Yukon.  Her cargo capacity was up to 300 tons, and sometimes a loaded barge was pushed ahead.  Manuevering the fast moving Yukon River took skill, especially in spring when snow melt filled the river.  The Klondike was retired in 1955.  Today she rests on the west bank of the Yukon River in Whitehorse.  There is an interpretive center, film, and free self-guided tours at this National Historic Site.

Teslin to Whitehorse Yukon Territory

From Teslin YT (Yukon Territory) we had a fairly short drive to Whitehorse, YT.  Along the way we drove close to two large lakes: Teslin Lake and Marsh Lake.  We found Pioneer RV Park just outside town.

Whitehorse is a large city, compared to most we've been in lately.  Since 1953 it has been the capital of Yukon; with a population of  26,000, it accounts for about 60% of the total inhabitants of the entire territory.  It has stores, restaurants, museums, parks, phone & wi fi.

Whitehorse was founded during the Klondike gold rush.  Large paddlewheel steamboats navigated the Yukon River to Whitehorse, bringing people and supplies to the new territory.  Eventually a railroad line was built from Skagway, Alaska to Whitehorse, Yukon...this connected the town to even more trade.  Whitehorse became a major supply center for the entire Yukon Territory.

After about two weeks of driving every day, we have decided to park and stay a few days in Whitehorse...rest, get a car wash, and just play tourist for awhile.

Coal River BC to Teslin Yukon

After Coal River the Alaska Hwy turns northward toward Yukon Territory. The road crosses the border of British Columbia and Yukon several times before arriving at the next sizable town: Watson Lake.  Watson Lake is a trade center for southeast Yukon.  The little town of about 1500 is at the junction of a couple major highways, and sees lots of traffic.

A neat tourist attraction in Watson Lake is the "Sign Forest". The idea was started by a GI during construction in WW II...he put the name of his hometown on a piece of wood and posted the sign pointing in the direction of his home. Since then thousands of visitors have added their own signs, and now the forest contains some 75,000 signs.

From there we continued on to Yukon Motel and RV, our campsite in Teslin, Yukon.

This little town of about 450 residents sees lots of travelers.  They have fuel, a restaurant, motel rooms, the RV park, gift shop and wildlife museum. It sets right at the end of Nisutlin River Bridge on Nisutlin Bay.

Noisy ravens welcomed us...they are the province bird and images of them are found on locally made souveniers.

Fort Nelson to Coal River BC

From Fort Nelson the Alaska highway climbs through the Canadian Rockies.  We cross the highest peak at Summit Lake (elevation 4250 ft). Three large provincial parks are along the route. 

We drove along Toad River and the shores of Muncho Lake...literally...there are no guard rails!  Laird Hot Springs is the third park, but we didn't stop there.

 

This was our day for seeing wildlife...black and brown bears, caribou, stone sheep with lambs, and bison.  All were wandering along the roads, or in the case of the bison, crossing the road in front of us.

Our destination that night was Coal River Lodge and RV.  This was a 1940's style roadhouse with cafe, fuel, motel rooms & campground for tents & RV's.  There was no phone or wi-fi service; the camp ran a generator to supply household power for the buildings and the 12 RV sites...we had to be careful how many electronic appliances we turned on at once!  (FYI: this lodge is now for sale if anyone is looking for an investment opportunity...)